MALTA — Publik Abode is ambrosial and cozy, central and out. Flower-filled window boxes and chastened melancholia adornment accost you afore you enter, and the balm of beginning airheaded wafts into your adenoids as anon as you footfall inside.

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The hostess base is appropriate there, a knotty-pine paneled dining allowance to the appropriate and bar breadth with tables to the left. Both are of bashful size, not too big, the dining allowance adequate with floral curtains and balmy red paint. There are lots of absorptive booths to accept from; you’ll feel adequate aloof about anywhere.

The aboriginal baby house, which still exists as allotment of the restaurant, has been about back the 1930s. Several decades and owners later, it assured up in the easily of Joseph Squadere, freeholder for the accomplished 25 years.

It was active abundant in the dining room, but not so abundant that the two servers couldn’t handle it. We got drinks, had a acceptable attending about and arrested out the menu.

We begin the accepted absurd appetizers and a array of wings, and were animated to see aflame clams and broiled red peppers with mozzarella and anchovies in the mix. There are salads ample and small, sandwiches hot and cold. The few entrees accommodate ribs, absurd and broiled seafood, and Italian dishes such as lasagna and blimp shells. Prices are reasonable.

Chicken parm is a acceptable adumbration of a restaurant’s prices. If it seems too low to be true, it’s apparently fabricated with candy craven fingers. Fancy restaurants will amount it in the low-to-mid-$20 range; endemic would be fabricated with beginning craven broken or formed thin, bootleg sauce, aliment and bloom included. At $14.99, Publik House’s adaptation sits absolutely in the average of the road, and so does the blow of their menu. 

They action a ambit of analytic priced, mass-market wines, a anthologized for everybody and a beer account in accession to a abounding bar.

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This pub and restaurant takes its pizza seriously, we learned, with a abounding folio committed to the offerings including both blubbery or attenuate crust. We absitively to alpha by sampling a baby pie.

Sheryl and I agreeably acclaim the Turning Point ($9.49 for a four-cut), one of several white pizzas, this with fresh-tasting pesto and chunks of white meat chicken.

It tasted as acceptable as it looked, with pesto-brushed dough, lots of mozzarella cheese and pieces of chicken, which taken together, were superb. The band was aloof about the edges, alluringly browned in spots, aerial aural and tasty. We anticipation there was added assemble condiment and conceivably some begrimed acidity from the oven. Absolutely delicious, and we get why they avowal that their pizza is the best in the area.

Our server recommended a hot sandwich for a arctic day, and Sheryl answerable by acclimation the open-faced buzz beef sandwich with chips and gravy ($10.99).

She was initially aghast by the actualization of the bread, which looked like bartering white. But Publik Abode cares about its bread, and this was like absolutely acceptable broken Italian with a abutting band from a bakery. Points to them.

The chips were the blubbery kind, adapted until browned at the ends, hot and absolute and, like the meat, covered in gravy. We admired the gravy able-bodied enough, and Sheryl appear that the agilely broken meat was breakable and tasty.

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Points afresh to Publik Abode for application its excellent, made-daily pizza band to appearance the cycle that came with my craven parm.

My meal consisted of two pieces of boneless white meat craven with a tasty, blubbery breading I kept acrimonious at continued afterwards I was done, topped with browned mozzarella cheese. There was added al dente linguine than I could eat, tossed with bootleg sauce. I adopt a added akin sauce, but the $.25 of onion showed it was afresh made. The meat was anxiously trimmed, and the breading best up some added acidity from the affable oil. Spot-on for the price.

We sampled a bootleg dessert, Toll Abode pie ($5.25).

“Would you like ice chrism with that?” asked the server. Then, “Would you like it microwaved?” Thanks for the heads-up, I thought, microwaves do abhorrent things to pie crust. We had it cold, with a acceptable confined of absolute aerated cream.

There are some who like a gooey, hot Toll Abode cookie, and this is the pie for them. Served cold, the pie doesn’t absolutely work. The chips are adamantine and the bushing aloof looks undercooked. I broiled the extra pie and, like magic, it became that adhesive cookie, complete with broiled chips. A beat of ice chrism would be aloof the affair to go with it.

The tab for our meal came to $54.25 with one soda.

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“If I lived abutting by I would appear actuality a lot,” assured Sheryl, and I agreed. A banquet salad, a baby pizza and a bottle of wine in their close dining allowance and I’d be pleased. You would, too.

WHERE: 2727 U.S. Route 9, Ballston Spa, 518-587-7479, www.publikhouse.net

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

HOW MUCH: $54.25, with one soda, tax and tip

MORE INFO: Credit cards: Mastercard, Visa, American Express, Discover. Children’s menu. ADA compliant.

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