ST. PETERSBURG — “I charge books, 7,000 hardbacks,” I brainstorm the artist adage to her minions.

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“What should they be about? Who should they be by?” they respond.

“Doesn’t matter. Accomplish abiding they are all blue. No, wait, and I charge three red ones.”

Jordan Winston is the artist in question. And the Peabody is the activity she oversaw. It is the new restaurant central Johns Hopkins All Children’s Hospital.

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Why is it alleged the Peabody? It’s a advertence to the George Peabody Library on the Johns Hopkins campus in Baltimore, which opened its doors in 1878 and is accepted broadly as Baltimore’s “Cathedral of Books.” It contains added than 300,000 volumes dating from the Renaissance through the 19th century; it is breadth abounding Baltimore brides arrangement to be married, envisioning themselves beaming and bouncing from one of the abounding balconies. Winston flew to Baltimore, in fact, to accretion afflatus and architecture a amplitude that nods at actuality absorbed in knowledge.

The fun activity is that some of the doctors at the hospital in St. Petersburg donated books to the project. It took added than 80 hours to assemblage the books in the floor-to-ceiling shelves about the open, aerial restaurant space. So, what’s in the three red ones? I couldn’t buck to look, for abhorrence they were article like Phlebotomy for Dummies.

You can blink if you go. And you should go.

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If the restaurant looks a little like the alluring Oxford Exchange in Tampa, there are affidavit for that. Hospital CEO Jonathan Ellen asked Oxford owners Allison Casper Adams and Blake Casper to accept of a restaurant amplitude in the new 225,000-square-foot analysis and apprenticeship building. (Blake Casper owns added than 50 McDonald’s restaurants in the greater Tampa Bay breadth — in fact, he has a arguable beginning in Tampa General Hospital.) Hospital administrators admired how Oxford Exchange had become a community-building abode for contest and an agreeable abode to aloof adhere out.

Doctors, agents and the parents of kids at All Children’s, they thought, adapted a respite, a back-slapping abode to amble over a meal or aloof grab a comestible cup of joe.

The Peabody has dejected wingback chairs broadcast around, copse bank and black-and-white marble asphalt evocative of Oxford Exchange, additional portraits of stern-looking robed association (one a account of the John Singer Sargent account of Baltimore suffragist and philanthropist Mary Elizabeth Garrett, who adjourned the enactment of the Johns Hopkins Medical School with the agreement that women should be accepted admission to Hopkins).

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The Peabody charge accomplish a lot of functions. They brought in the activating adolescent controlling sous chef from Oxford Exchange, Rachel Bennett, 30, to arch things up. She has wisely amorphous with a card that reprises some of Oxford’s greatest hits (the absurd avocado wedges, the atramentous bean burger, the steak frites), to alpha alms a card that doubles as cafeteria and dinner, with a added all-encompassing banquet card to chase soon.

For now, my admired advantage is brunch, partly because the brilliant dining allowance is a contentment on a comfortable weekend morning, and partly because the brunch card hits a amazing ambit of candied and agreeable aerial notes. They do a pork abdomen Benedict ($14) on a biscuit (the biscuit got a little soggy, so it was a fork-and-knife affair), the costly abdomen countered with the brittle candied aroma of absurd blooming amazon and a buttery Creole hollandaise. But I additionally anticipate the thick-cut French acknowledgment with cream, maple abstract and berries ($13) is a keeper, abnormally abutting with a animating Buddy Brew coffee drink.

A abounding bar, abbreviate account of acute specialty affair and biking account of wines by the canteen accomplish it a affable abode to absorb a little something. (Markups assume a little steep: A Cloud Chaser Cotes de Provence rose is $13 a canteen but retails about that amount for a bottle.) I sipped a Buffalo Trace Manhattan one night ($12), adorable with its Filthy blooming and Carpano Antica vermouth (bitter but with biscuit and orange bark and figgy-licorice notes) afore acrimonious my way through a affable cheese and charcuterie lath ($18) and again diving into a altogether adapted bandage of broiled apricot ($23) commutual with augment amazon farro and a agitate of sauteed spinach.

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As at Oxford Exchange, I anticipate the amplitude and high-end architecture of the amplitude may hardly adumbrate the food. But Bennett is accomplishing accurate and solid assignment at a amount point that is in befitting with what city St. Petersburg can support. She’s accomplishing it with aliment that is generally arranged up for abandoned doctors and ambitious doctors to booty aback to their offices, and sometimes it is aliment that brings advance to a ancestors ailing with worry, who needs, aloof for an hour or so, to be accomplished in a admirable setting.

Contact Laura Reiley at [email protected] or (727) 892-2293. Chase @lreiley. She dines unannounced and the Times pays all expenses.

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